Sunday, July 5, 2009

Prince Rupert, Ketchikan, to Prince of Wales Is.

07-02 Prince Rupert BC to Ketchikan AK







My first Alaska Marine Highway Ferry was aboard the Taku
352 ft long and 45 years old but well kept and clean.
This ferry has a starboard (right) door in the bow and a double wide door in the stern (rear).
With this kind of a layout autos can drive straight in from the stern and out at the bow when they arrive at their destination.
The ferry then loads from the bow and discharges from the stern on the return trip.
With this setup they drive straight in to one port and then back in at the next port.
But anyway I guess they do this so that they can sail with a traditional ships bow rather than some other ferries that are flat at both ends.
Faster I am sure.
Cost :
Passenger $54 USD
34 ft rig $265 USD

Pre boarding here has two phases.
First phase is the AMHS part.
A guy has you stop outside on the road and he measures your rig.
He told me I was 36 feet and I told him I only paid for 34 feet.
He said very congenially, "ok" and marked 34' on the tag, told me to drive in and park, and go to the office for the ticket (the extra two feet was the bicycle I add ed later).
I drove in, parked, and stood in line at the ticket counter.
When my turn came I gave them my passport, itinerary number, and the 34' tag and he cave me all of my tickets for the trip and told me to go park in lane #2.
While sitting there waiting an official looking guy came up and asked me if I had turned off my propane, I had, and if I was transporting any gasoline containers in my truck (I was not*) and if I was had any fire arms and I said yes... the shotgun.
He then asked me where it was... was it covered up? was it empty? was the ammunition stored somewhere else?
I answered all of these satisfactorily and he went his way.

* * the part about the gasoline cans I took literally. I had none in the truck. I had two little one gallon cans strapped to the bumper of the trailer but he didn't ask about the trailer... he asked about the truck... and besides the two very red gasoline containers were in plane site.


The second part of pre boarding was US customs who, as you drove into the second que, asked the normal "entering the United States" questions.
Where are you headed?
How long have you been in Canada?
Where are you from?
All while looking at my face and passport.
Normal US Customs boarder entry.








Boarding the Taku in Prince Rupert.
Left at 8:30 AM for a five hour trip.

From my previous ferry trips on the BC Ferries route I find there is one distinct difference between a cruise ship and a ferry (aside from the obvious... autos) and that is that they are more like old ocean liners with promenade decks on most levels.

On a cruise ships you are locked in.. no way to walk around the outside of all the decks.
You have far more room to roam with the fresh sea air on these boats I think.








Leaving Prince Rupert you sail past the deep water commercial port.
Prince Rupert takes some overflow from Vancouver and some lines from Asia prefer it as the Yellowhead hwy runs right through the heart of the western provinces... as does a rail line.
Five years ago when I was here I was told that the railroad tunnels heading east would be heightened so that the can stack more containers on the cars.
But then five years ago they had live dungenous crab at Dolly's so...




Approaching Kethcikan by skirting the island on the west side.
A cruise ships leaves the main channel heading south.
The Ferry dock is north of town and away from tourists... perfect.
The infamous "Bridge to Nowhere" would have spanned the main island on the right, over the cruise ships ot the little island on the left in then over the outside channel to the big island of Graviana out of the picture on the left.




The previous video showed me following this white rig in.
I didn't get the camera up in time to get it all but he had to do two Y maneuvers to get out the door.
I just waited until I was waved forward, drove left and deep ,and then cranked it hard right and made it out in one shot with yards of clearance all around (I pay no attention to the autodeck hand with his wave and pointing... I know my rig, he doesn't).
First example I guess of an advantage of RVing small .














Driving my cruise-egg up to the docks snuggling up against a cruise-ship was fun if not tricky.
I had the guard ladies walking toward me with purpose as I drove out.
Grin






At first look I didn't even notice that the building at the end of the street was a very slow moving cruise ship.




This is Phil, the cab driver.
He had lots of questions about the Casita.
It seems I ran into Phil four times or more in Ketchikan whether it be a wave, a honk, or an actual inside look at the trailer.










Stayed at Ward Lake campground.
Very secluded and quiet.
$8 per night standard minus $4 per night golden age discount... who would want to stay in an RV park when you could stay here?
Rate it a 9 as a campground.
There is a Walmart north of town if you want to stay there... but I can't say for sure if they allow it..
Also you can "Rest" in the Ferry lot as long as you are far back out of the way, its late at night, and you dont make it look like you are camping (putting a chair out on the ground or such).
An advantage of RVing small self-contained.

07-03 Ketchikan AK to Hollis, Prince of Wales Island












I have plenty of time to walk around so I parked my rig in the Safeway lot and had a walking-look of downtown Ketchkan.
It is a pretty place.
Period-painted and decorated like a Disney set.
Filled with tourists.
Three ships in today.
They can handle five.
Locals not involved with retail downtown hate it when they get that many ships.
That many people.
Retailers love it of course.
I went shopping for live Dungenous to heal my Rupert wounds only to find NONE!!
Anywhere!!
Just kept walking.
BTW the ferry lets you off north of downtown.
Where the more interesting parts of Ketchikan are.
Fish packing plants and non-touristy normal stuff.
But warning!
There are not very many (if any) good places to eat North of town.
The last place for good food and service is right across from the ferry terminal.
Its a combination hotel restaurant.
Forgot the name
Took no images downtown but I did go out on a few piers and took pictures of eagles and float planes and such.
Eagles are as thick as ravens here.
A digital Camera with a 200mm telephoto is all you need to get nice shots.



I did the casita cruise ship thing again but this time got yelled at big time.
Each shot was taken at a different dock and this last one convinced me to move out fast and to warn you that if you do this it is at your own risk.
Do as I say.
Not as I do.
Had lunch and waited of the Stikine Ferry to pick me up and take me to Hollis.




The Stikine is owned by the residents of Prince of Wales Island and subsidized by the State.
It runs a daily schedule between Ketchikan and Hollis but before they got their own they would have to wait a week for an Alaska state ferry.
Dont look for this ferry on the Alaska Marine Highway System site.
They are the Alaska Inter-Island Ferry

Cost
Passenger $37USD
36 ft rig $221USD




Boarding the Stikine at 3:30 PM for a three hour ride.

I had a pleasant three hour ride to Hollis.
Nice weather to be on the ocean.
Met three guys and chatted.
They were from the Bay Area somewhere.
Mid forties.
Going for a week of fishing at Coffman Cove.
Doing man's-vacation thing.
Pretty relaxed group of guys.



This speeded up video shows the exit at Hollis.
Note the parking/unparking menagerie.
The ship is small but they pack a lot in.
As usual when I exit I wait until I am motioned to exit and then I drive my rig paying little attention to the deckhand.

PS if you make it obvious that he is not in charge it may make for problems.
Just keep nodding your head like you understand the directions he is giving while at the same time doing what you need to.





Drove from Hollis (A) to Craig (B)
Had some great clam chowder with fresh bread at Ruth Ann's.. its not New England and not New York... different good.
There is a 3rd of July fireworks show this night.
In front of the Tongass National Forest dorm... actually across the bay on a peninsula.
Someone (I think a Tongass worker) invited me to park my trailer and spend the night in the Headquarters parking lot.
Oh! Why the 3rd of July celebration?
Well fireworks have to be torched by a licensed fireworks guy and the town of Klawock up the road wanted fireworks too.
There is only one licensed fireworks guy available on POW.
So I guess they settled on Craig for the third and Klawock for the fourth.
Anyway the fireworks didn't start until well after 11:00 PM as the sun lights the sky late here.

Just thinking...
if the Craig fireworks show ended after midnight (which it did)
and the Klawock show.starts before midnight on the 4th then
they both ended up having some fireworks on the 4th of July!
Shrug

07-04 Prince of Wales Island
Just hanging out today.
Found a nice little coffee place with wifi... The Wheelhouse.
I spilled a bottle cooking oil on the Casita floor so it's a lot of work today is cleanup.
Took the rug out to the Laundromat and paid $6 per load. No Joke! SIX bucks.
Big machines but...
Parked on the side of the road and tried to get some good eagle shots.... yuk.
Hard.. very hard to learn how to track a flying object at the 400 mms needed to fill a frame.
The eagles were busy catching herring out on the water.
Here is one shot I got.. very far away



I zoomed in on this and could see claws full of herring!




Spending the night at the Rain Country RV... full hookups.
Flat weedy spaces close together.
Rate it a 6

Jeans feel so good when they get broke in
Loose and warm and comforting.
I don’t want to wash them…. What’s a little fish blood?
I hate to change into a new clean pair because it will take two or three days to season them properly

Also, RV parks suck..all of them so far Best camping is boondocking out in the wilds or state parks

just sayin


07-05 Prince of Wales Island



Found a campground called Eagles Nest some miles north.
Just about where the Coffman Cove/Thorne Bay road Tees.
With my the Golden Oldtimer card (whatever) it is $5 per night.
Rate it 8






Decided to drive back to Craig unhooked to use the internet and got a cell call from Kathy the naturalist (left my number with Wheelhouse cafe).
She taxis around scientists and academicians doing research on whales and other stuff.
So she knows how to find wildlife.
We made a time to meet and went out on her boat and she got me lots of whale pictures, otters, and even some petroglyphs on shore.




Back to camp after a thrilling day
The campground was totally empty except for Jo the camp host and her son the Tongas ranger from Thorne Bay just down the road.
But when I got back this evening there was another camper in the campground.
Only one.
Guess where he setup camp?
Right next to me.
There were maybe twenty sites.. all empty.
My spot was about the middle not close to restrooms, trash cans, anything.
Why did they camp THERE?
This has happened to me before and I just move to a different site.
Is it me?
Would you park right next to someone camping when there were a dozen other choices?
Grrrrrrr.




Back in new campsite.
Me, the laptop, beer, and cigar.
Just thinking


Rented a few DVDs for this trip One was ‘No country for old men” .
Pretty gross and violent but existential in the fullest.
If there is any lesson I have learned and have to keep repeating its message is this world does not belong to me anymore, There is no Ozzie and Harriets anymore or JFK or Walter Cronkite
The world does not bend at all to my will
It belongs to another generation and their generations generation.
Don’t fret about what you think it should be.

Take what God gave you, enjoy what you can of it, and get out of their way.


GREAT movie
Just Sayin